A Shower Cap from Swimwear?
Specifically, men’s bathing suit fabric. Inside: Making a reversible shower cap.
Whenever I stay in a hotel and there’s a complimentary shower cap, it’s coming home with me. But they’re not built to last, and my current one is starting to resemble a piece of saran wrap perched on my head. My eldest daughter looks at it and muses, “What is that?” So I decided to make one that would last.
In today’s letter, I’m sharing how to make a reversible shower cap with a ruffled edge in five-ish easy steps.
Recycled Polyester Swim Trunk Fabric
For the fabric, I wanted something lightweight, water-repellent, and fun. When I dripped water on this swim trunk swatch and it pooled up like drops of dew, I thought, Ah ha! We’re in business.
Before you start, gather and prep your supplies: fabric, coordinating thread, elastic, and a fresh, sharp needle in your machine. I used a universal needle for this project.
The recycled poly swim trunk fabric is from Mood Fabrics.

And for the elastic, I used 1/4-inch braided elastic. (In case you missed it, I’ve written about braided elastic here: The Mending Basket: Elastic Waistband Fixes.)
Step 1: Draft your circle.
I started by removing the elastic from my beloved hotel cap and used that circle’s diameter as a pattern guide.
Then I added 2 inches to the diameter (it always felt a tad small) plus extra for the ruffle and seam allowance.
Step 2: Cut and sew (right sides facing) two circles together.
Leave a small opening for turning right side out.
Trim and clip the curve so the edge lies flat, then turn right side out.
Step 3: Mark, baste, and sew the casing.
I chalked the outer casing stitch line, then basted just beside it. (Basting holds the fabrics together so nicely).
To sew the casing, I stitched on top of the chalk mark, leaving a second opening for threading the elastic through, then added a second stitch line 3/8 inches away.
To make the 3/8-inch casing, I used a seam gauge to measure the distance from the needle to the stitch line. Once I saw how far the presser foot edge sat from the stitch line, I kept that spacing consistent as I sewed.
Step 4: Prepare your elastic.
First, measure your head. I like to take the measuring tape, loop it around the nape of my neck, over my ears, and cross over at the crown of my head so I can read the measurement in a mirror.
Next, cut your elastic. Trim it shorter than your head measurement. The shower cap should fit snug, not rest on your head like a crown. Don’t forget to include a little extra for the overlap needed to sew the elastic loop closed.
Step 5: Thread your elastic through the casing.
With a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing.
I pinned the elastic*, basted it together for easy sewing (yes, more basting!), and ran a quick zigzag to close the loop. Then I stitched the casing closed on the machine and whipstitched the ruffle edge to finish the shower cap.
*After pinning with a safety pin, it’s a good time to try on the cap to make sure the elastic feels right.
Why did I choose a reversible design?
Two prints in one! And from a construction point of view, it was also my way of finishing the curved edge. Alternatively, if you’d rather make a non-reversible version, you could cut a single layer, apply a sew-through knitted elastic, and finish the circle’s curved edge with binding.
I hope you enjoyed this little sewing adventure. Here’s to quicker and more fashionable showers. Thank you so much for being here, and see you next time.
~ Jane
More From Classic Cool Sewing:
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In this week’s letter, I’m wrapping up my Marimekko slipcover project (you can find the first part here) and sharing how to sew a lapped zipper. This type of application is favored for slipcovers made with coil zippers since it hides the zipper better than a slot seam.



















I love the way you share this incredible art and craft of sewing. The tutorials are so interesting with the history and photos. Thank you for sharing your talents with us !!!