Button, Button, Who's Got the Button?
How to attach sew-through buttons & reinforced buttons. Plus, button thread designs.
A lost button, or a loose button threatening to fall off whenever it feels like, is no fun. Below are two methods for attaching sew-through buttons. The first is your basic sew-through technique with a thread shank, and the second is if you need some extra support from a stay, meaning a small patch of fabric or a supporting button placed on the underside. Keep reading for button-sewing tips. Or, if you want to skip straight to the one-minute shorts: here they are!
Sew-Through Buttons
To attach a sew-through button, first take several small stitches on right side of garment to secure the thread at the point where the button is to be placed. Bring the needle through the button and back into fabric, inserting a pin or toothpick over the button under the first stitch to allow for a thread shank. (A thread shank gives space for fabric to sit in between the button and the garment when the garment is buttoned.)
Continue sewing through the fabric and button until the button is secure. Remove the pin or toothpick and pull the button to the top of threads evenly. Bring thread to the right side of fabric and wind tightly around the stitches under the button to form a shank. And lastly, fasten thread securely on underside with several stitches.
You can watch the pin technique here.
And the toothpick technique here.

Reinforced Buttons
When there is a great deal of strain on the button, a reinforcement or stay can be used to stay the underside of the button. A stay could be a small button, a tiny square of fabric, or the combined fabric square with a small button. If the fabric is delicate, a fabric square or seam binding may work better than a small button.
To sew a stayed button, place a square of fabric or small button on the inside of the garment under the button and sew in place through button, garment and stay using the same method as the sew-through button.
Here’s a one-minute tutorial on how to sew a stayed button.
Thread Designs
Lastly, if you’re sewing a new garment or changing out an entire set, say on a coat or blouse, don’t forget to consider thread designs as details, too. Here are a few ideas for one-color thread designs:
That’s it for now! See you next time with one of my favorites—making Dior Roses using a technique inspired by the same one Monsieur Dior used in his 1950s atelier.
~ Jane