Decoding a Vintage Pattern from 1947
Interpreting vintage instructions, fabric guides, and sizing from a 1947 original.
The year is 1947.
Hollywood captivates with film noir. Roswell sparks UFO fever. Radio enjoys its golden age. Jackson Pollock is changing the art world, and Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby are topping charts. And in fashion, Dior’s “New Look” begins to influence American style with rounded shoulders, cinched waists, full skirts, and hourglass silhouettes.
1947 is also when this pattern was released.
There’s so much to learn and discover from vintage patterns. In this letter, I’m unpacking Simplicity Evening Skirt Sewing Pattern 2024, starting with the
Pattern Envelope, followed by the
Primer with Illustrated Instructions, and wrapping up with the
Tissue Paper Pattern.
While eBay is my go-to for vintage tissue paper pattern purchases, the Commercial Pattern Archive database (CoPA) is a phenomenal digital resource with an easy-to-use search. CoPA-Online contains over 55,000 scanned images (garments & pattern schematics) from 61,000 commercially produced patterns, dating back to 1847.
1. Pattern Envelope
Back-of-Envelope Details
A. Technical Drawings & Pattern Schematics
On the left side is a technical drawing of Style I front and back, a short description of all three styles, and the pattern schematics: each pattern piece’s flat shape and the total number of pattern pieces given.
B. Body Measurements and Finished Garment Measurements
This pattern is for size 26. It’s not a graded set. It wasn’t until the 1970s, when sales were lagging, that multi-size graded commercial patterns became widely available.
The pattern envelope also lists finished measurements for each style and size. Finished length is measured at the center front, from waist to finished hem, while Width Around Lower Edge refers to the skirt’s hem circumference. So, for Style I or II, finished length is 42 1/2 inches and the skirt’s hem circumference is 202 inches.
C. Fabric & Sewing Notions.
Along with fabric suggestions and notions, the envelope includes a yardage chart showing how much fabric you’ll need for each width.
Sewing notions mean small items or accessories used in sewing, like buttons, thread, hooks and eyes, and other items that aren’t fabric but are essential to garment construction.
Included in this patterns’s sewing notions is the term slide fastener.
So, what’s a slide fastener?
It’s described as the mechanical device that joined two edges of fabric with interlocking teeth, and what we now refer to as a zipper.
The B.F. Goodrich Company trademarked the name "Zipper" in 1943 (having first popularized its use for slide-fastened rubber galoshes in the early 1920s). The trademark expired in 1986 and was not renewed, which allowed the term to become generic and widely adopted across the industry.
2. Primer with Illustrated Instructions
Inside the envelope, accompanying the tissue paper pattern is a double-sided sheet of instructions with notes on alterations, cutting, and sewing. I won’t go into every detail, but I’ll share a few highlights that stood out to me and felt especially helpful for this and future garments.
• BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN… Run bastings at centers front and back, do not remove center bastings until garment is finished.
Running a basting stitch creates a visual marker. It keeps the garment symmetrical and balanced as you sew and fit. Keeping the basting in until the end ensures nothing shifts or stretches. For this style, basting also acts like a stay stitch, keeping the bias-cut skirt panels from stretching before sewing.
• Baste seams. Try on before stitching.
I usually jump straight into sewing seams, but for this skirt I’ll baste and try on first, which leads into the next tip.
• LONG BIAS SEAMS (as in a skirt) - Allow them to hang a day. If seams draw, clip the basting, and allow to drop; stitch.
In sewing, when a seam "draws," it means the seams are uneven or puckered. So, if your seams are looking wavy or bumpy instead of smooth after they hang for a day, clip, drop, and stitch.
3. Tissue Paper Pattern
These are pretty straightforward, and the details haven’t changed much over the decades. There’s the seam lines, cut lines, notches, pattern label, cut number, and grain line, along with gathering lines and markings for center back, center front, and side seams. As a side note, I do enjoy the crisp blue print quality!
Why Vintage Patterns Still Feel Different
The basics of commercial patterns haven’t changed much since the late 40s. The envelopes are generally the same size, though more garments today are shown in photos on models rather than illustrations.
The handfeel is worth noting. The tissue paper, printed primer, and envelope feel noticeably higher quality than most big-name patterns (indie brands aside), giving these vintage patterns a more elevated feel, even after nearly 80 years.
I also appreciate the dressmaker notes: allowing the seams to hang, basting and trying on before sewing, tips like these. They’re like little reminders to take your time. Yes, they sometimes feel extra, and they’re certainly not shortcuts. But if your goal is creating a garment that looks and fits beautifully, then these helpful details, simple in execution, help you do just that.
I’d love to know, have you ever sewn from a vintage pattern, or do you collect them? Share in the comments or send me a message. I’d be so curious to hear!
~ Jane
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