Oh your third baby! How wonderful. You will really be juggling. It sounds like you had some great opportunities with Boston and L.A. What a an experience. Yes I altered wedding gowns, made a few, altered prom gowns and created several and tons of welding caps. That was because at that time the gas industry was booming where I live (small town too) and there were hundreds of gas wells being dug and there were workers from all over the states moving here for a few years, sometimes for the summer.. They could be bought online of course and many brought them along. I had one nice guy that was looking for a sewing mom and pop shop. He was from Oklahoma. He liked his custom fit. So he gave me one of his caps to knock off. I had to have one fitting to make sure it's what he wanted(no elastic), he also liked the bill of the cap longer than standard fit caps. He asked if I could make around 38 caps, I laughed and said ,"sure". I knew that had to be 100% cotton. I asked him if he had a certain design or color. He asked, " Do you have any Bob the Builder?" I did! Left over from making shorts for my young son. He said after that to just use some cool stuff. So I made, dinosaurs, Power Rangers, Superman,Batman, spiders, and more! He loved them! And I learned how to create welding caps to fit under those big metal things they wear. The bill is wore over one or 5he other ear depending what side they are welding from. The bill is worn over an ear so when sparks fly they fly off the bill instead of going down their neck catching hair on fire. He liked his long for a reason.
how cool!! I absolutely love your story, that he came in with such specific requests for his welding caps, and that you had the fabric he was looking for. kismet! I'd want the longer bill too. 🙃
and now i'm curious... no elastic / 100% cotton for melting reasons? or no elastic for a tailored fit and cotton for breathability? i'm intrigued!
I always look for plaid matching, which usually tells you it's a better made garment.
Doesn't matter what type of garment or what kind of fabric. I was a patternmaker at Woolrich. The plaids had to match almost always horizontally and vertically. Few exceptions though. The patternmaker was responsible for indicating the match lines on every pattern piece, some of the wool coats could have 14 pieces more or less.
Of course down parkas were never plaid, thank goodness, there could be 60 pattern pieces to create a down parka.
What an experience! Thank you for sharing this. You must have so many stories from your time at Woolrich. I secretly (or not so secretly :) love complex patterns… but that level of plaid matching would make my head spin! I remember Woolrich from growing up... and now I’m down a rabbit hole looking at vintage Woolrich… such beautiful pieces. ❤️
yes! i would absolutely love that. we could even feature it on Classic Cool Sewing if you’d be open to it. and no pressure, of course. Merry Christmas Debra! talk soon 🩷
That's funny Jane. I'm happy to share. I grew up 10 mins Woolrich the town and the Corporate Headquarters. Almost in my backyard. Yes, matching plaids was a big thing for Woolrich. What we would do as pattern drafters was to match every possible pattern piece that could be matched. We'd start with left front to right front(if button up or zipper) then fronts to back at both sideseams, all pockets and pocket flaps, cuffs matched each other and the top collar piece would match when looking at both ends of collar at the front neck. Both ends would mirror each other(same as cuffs actually- mirror each other. Then of course the sleeves would match 3ach other in addition to matching the fronts as the coat was worn, the plaid went straight across from say at bicep, across fronts then straight across the opposite sleeve. And even though you matched the front side seams to to back side seams, when sewn in production the sewer would start the side seams from the bottom up to armhole. Even though they were matched on the pattern and when cut out as you would sew up the sides seams at times if the plaids slightly shifted, by the time that happened they were closer to the under arm and weren't noticed as the sleeves hung down and covered that upper part of the side seam.
oh Debra! this is so lovely to read. your tip about sewing plaids from bottom to armhole is fantastic. i love your behind-the-scenes Woolrich details… it really brings the craft (and the art of it!) to life. did you always want to be a patternmaker, or did a winding path lead you there? i’ve always loved to sew, but it was patterns that drew me to study and work in fashion. I never liked sketching, but patterns are what i fell in love with and still find most inspiring.
Hi Jane, my mother taught me to sew when I was very young. She was always sewing something and she sewed everything! But she also sewed production for 36 yrs. I did too a few different places. Cutting room, quality, and marker making for production. By hand. I would sew at home for myself. I always to be a designer. I decided to go to an applied arts school to study Fashion Design. Of course you had to learn to sew and create your own pattern from your sketches. I already could sew, and I knew patterns from using commercial ones. I usually chang3d the store bought or combined different ones. We had pattern drafting classes 5 to 6 hours long. I absolutely fell into that, I loved learning to draft especially from scratch, absolutely nothing. I had no idea that would be my profession. I can design, if you know how to make a pattern you can be your own designer. There were 4 to 6 designers at Woolrich, all from NYC.
4 patternmakers and we worked with the designers. I do like every aspect of creating garments. I worked in several garment manufacturing companies in my area before I decided to go back to college. I was 29 .
This all is such a long story, if you ever have a question about anything you think I might know please don't hesitate to ask. I am happy to share whatever I know.
It's sounds like you are very experienced as well.
To me...patterns aren't hard at all..can occasionally be a challenge with I also like. There is a method once you learn it you can pattern anything. I also had a sewing shop for about 3 yrs. It was stuffed full of fabric! lol...
I did weddings and proms and even welder caps!
Plus alterations. It was my dream but I got sick and had to close it. I live in a rural area and small town. But now I'm going to try it again out of my home as a hobby between sewing for family and friends.
You know what is so sad, all the garment factories around here have all pretty much gone, even Woolrich.
Overseas. I saw so many women lose their jobs since the 80's it was terrible. And now like Walmart, it's called fast fashion. I myself call it throw away fashion. Sad.
I'm happy you are interested. I enjoy hearing more about what you like to do. I'm still wandering in Substack, and trying to figure it all out. Do you have a website or blog?
Also I can recommend the really good patter making books out there. I mean they are all good, but now I know if they explain the process in a difficult way or if one book is easier than another. There are so many out there now. I think the book we used in college is out of print.
I do not use blocks. lol.
haha! wow! how do you start a new pattern? do you use reference patterns or a dress form??
Oh your third baby! How wonderful. You will really be juggling. It sounds like you had some great opportunities with Boston and L.A. What a an experience. Yes I altered wedding gowns, made a few, altered prom gowns and created several and tons of welding caps. That was because at that time the gas industry was booming where I live (small town too) and there were hundreds of gas wells being dug and there were workers from all over the states moving here for a few years, sometimes for the summer.. They could be bought online of course and many brought them along. I had one nice guy that was looking for a sewing mom and pop shop. He was from Oklahoma. He liked his custom fit. So he gave me one of his caps to knock off. I had to have one fitting to make sure it's what he wanted(no elastic), he also liked the bill of the cap longer than standard fit caps. He asked if I could make around 38 caps, I laughed and said ,"sure". I knew that had to be 100% cotton. I asked him if he had a certain design or color. He asked, " Do you have any Bob the Builder?" I did! Left over from making shorts for my young son. He said after that to just use some cool stuff. So I made, dinosaurs, Power Rangers, Superman,Batman, spiders, and more! He loved them! And I learned how to create welding caps to fit under those big metal things they wear. The bill is wore over one or 5he other ear depending what side they are welding from. The bill is worn over an ear so when sparks fly they fly off the bill instead of going down their neck catching hair on fire. He liked his long for a reason.
they certainly keep me on my toes! 😆
how cool!! I absolutely love your story, that he came in with such specific requests for his welding caps, and that you had the fabric he was looking for. kismet! I'd want the longer bill too. 🙃
and now i'm curious... no elastic / 100% cotton for melting reasons? or no elastic for a tailored fit and cotton for breathability? i'm intrigued!
YES, and kept the forehead sweat from running down in his eyes!
ahhh, makes total sense!
Plus plaids match well.
great point!
I always look for plaid matching, which usually tells you it's a better made garment.
Doesn't matter what type of garment or what kind of fabric. I was a patternmaker at Woolrich. The plaids had to match almost always horizontally and vertically. Few exceptions though. The patternmaker was responsible for indicating the match lines on every pattern piece, some of the wool coats could have 14 pieces more or less.
Of course down parkas were never plaid, thank goodness, there could be 60 pattern pieces to create a down parka.
What an experience! Thank you for sharing this. You must have so many stories from your time at Woolrich. I secretly (or not so secretly :) love complex patterns… but that level of plaid matching would make my head spin! I remember Woolrich from growing up... and now I’m down a rabbit hole looking at vintage Woolrich… such beautiful pieces. ❤️
I would be happy to explain how to match plaids sometime.
yes! i would absolutely love that. we could even feature it on Classic Cool Sewing if you’d be open to it. and no pressure, of course. Merry Christmas Debra! talk soon 🩷
That's funny Jane. I'm happy to share. I grew up 10 mins Woolrich the town and the Corporate Headquarters. Almost in my backyard. Yes, matching plaids was a big thing for Woolrich. What we would do as pattern drafters was to match every possible pattern piece that could be matched. We'd start with left front to right front(if button up or zipper) then fronts to back at both sideseams, all pockets and pocket flaps, cuffs matched each other and the top collar piece would match when looking at both ends of collar at the front neck. Both ends would mirror each other(same as cuffs actually- mirror each other. Then of course the sleeves would match 3ach other in addition to matching the fronts as the coat was worn, the plaid went straight across from say at bicep, across fronts then straight across the opposite sleeve. And even though you matched the front side seams to to back side seams, when sewn in production the sewer would start the side seams from the bottom up to armhole. Even though they were matched on the pattern and when cut out as you would sew up the sides seams at times if the plaids slightly shifted, by the time that happened they were closer to the under arm and weren't noticed as the sleeves hung down and covered that upper part of the side seam.
oh Debra! this is so lovely to read. your tip about sewing plaids from bottom to armhole is fantastic. i love your behind-the-scenes Woolrich details… it really brings the craft (and the art of it!) to life. did you always want to be a patternmaker, or did a winding path lead you there? i’ve always loved to sew, but it was patterns that drew me to study and work in fashion. I never liked sketching, but patterns are what i fell in love with and still find most inspiring.
Hi Jane, my mother taught me to sew when I was very young. She was always sewing something and she sewed everything! But she also sewed production for 36 yrs. I did too a few different places. Cutting room, quality, and marker making for production. By hand. I would sew at home for myself. I always to be a designer. I decided to go to an applied arts school to study Fashion Design. Of course you had to learn to sew and create your own pattern from your sketches. I already could sew, and I knew patterns from using commercial ones. I usually chang3d the store bought or combined different ones. We had pattern drafting classes 5 to 6 hours long. I absolutely fell into that, I loved learning to draft especially from scratch, absolutely nothing. I had no idea that would be my profession. I can design, if you know how to make a pattern you can be your own designer. There were 4 to 6 designers at Woolrich, all from NYC.
4 patternmakers and we worked with the designers. I do like every aspect of creating garments. I worked in several garment manufacturing companies in my area before I decided to go back to college. I was 29 .
This all is such a long story, if you ever have a question about anything you think I might know please don't hesitate to ask. I am happy to share whatever I know.
It's sounds like you are very experienced as well.
To me...patterns aren't hard at all..can occasionally be a challenge with I also like. There is a method once you learn it you can pattern anything. I also had a sewing shop for about 3 yrs. It was stuffed full of fabric! lol...
I did weddings and proms and even welder caps!
Plus alterations. It was my dream but I got sick and had to close it. I live in a rural area and small town. But now I'm going to try it again out of my home as a hobby between sewing for family and friends.
You know what is so sad, all the garment factories around here have all pretty much gone, even Woolrich.
Overseas. I saw so many women lose their jobs since the 80's it was terrible. And now like Walmart, it's called fast fashion. I myself call it throw away fashion. Sad.
I'm happy you are interested. I enjoy hearing more about what you like to do. I'm still wandering in Substack, and trying to figure it all out. Do you have a website or blog?
Or does Substack do the trick?
Also I can recommend the really good patter making books out there. I mean they are all good, but now I know if they explain the process in a difficult way or if one book is easier than another. There are so many out there now. I think the book we used in college is out of print.
yes, please! my go-to is Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I find it's written in a way that's easy to digest.
I also love Helen Joseph Armstrong patternmaking book.